![]() Mark the dado location on the upright. Set the depth of cut to 3/8' using the brass set up bar. Slide the upright into position in the jig and lock it down with the two clamps. Start the router and plunge down into the pine and upright at the top. Keep the router to the right hand side, pull down to the bottom, move to the left and return to the top. Shares 250 Want to learn how to make a simple dado jig? Hey Sawdust Girl Readers! Happy New Year! It’s member, Timisha here from. It has been a while since we last chatted. The holidays are a great time to spend with family and unwind. I can honestly say I did absolutely NOTHING. And I ate EVERYTHING. But now that the holidays are over, its time for a diet and it is time to get back on track and get back into the workshop. So this month we are working on jigs. The squad was tasked with coming up with jigs we could use in our shop. I decided to develop a jig for my palm router. I have a larger router and a router table. However, it’s a huge hassle to get it all set up and change out the bits. So I like using my palm router when possible. Problem is, it’s a bit of a challenge keeping the cuts straight and creating dado slots. I want to be able to do more dado joinery in future builds. So in this post, I am going to show you how I developed a simple jig for cutting dados with my trim router. How to Make a Dado Jig for Palm Router Materials • 1 – 1x3x6 Square edge Premium Board • 4 – 2” ¼ Carriage bolts • 4 – ¼ Wingnuts • 4 – 1 ¼ screws Cut List • 2 – 24” • 2 – 12” I wanted to make a jig that would be flexible and handle boards of various widths and thickness. I also wanted to use what I had on hand. When I think of a shop jig it should be something made using material that is easily accessible and it shouldn’t be too complicated. OK, Let’s Get Dirty! The Process • I started by cutting the 1×3 to size. Then using a ruler I marked a line down the middle of the boards for the slots. Here is a quick tip to check if you marked a straight line: Using a laser level, like this Bosch Self-Leveling Cross-Line Laser Level, place it at the head of the board and on a flat surface. If the laser lines up with the line, it is straight. • Drill a hole into the board with a drill bit that is wider than the router bit you’ll be using to make the slot. I used a ½” drill bit. The router bit that I used to make the slots was a ⅜ inch straight bit. • Using the router cut the slots for the bolt to pass through on the boards. Hardware fingerprint keygen. To create the slots I initially I tried making use of a couple of tips I saw online for the easiest way to create a routed slot. One way was to take a drill press and to drill all the way down the line that you want to route and then you go back in and clean it up with the router. Let me just say, I hated that process, so I scrapped it. Then I had a genius idea that I would just drill 2 holes at either ends of the slot would be and I’d route from one end to the next with the palm router to create the slot for the bolts. This was the result. It was a total disaster. Even with a board as a fence, my hands are just not steady and for some reason, my fence wasn’t that great either. Needless to say at the end of the day, I had to actually break out the router table to create the slots. I know the objective of this task was to reduce having to break out the router table. But in order to create the jig to create dados my palm router wasn’t going to cut it, at least not yet. The slots were created with ease using the router table. I set up the router table and insert the bit into the opening that I had drilled with the drill press and I cut open the slot. When working with a small piece of wood like this, I highly recommend using an item like a Featherpro so that it reduces the kickback from the wood and the wood actually stays down while you’re running it through the router. You want your slot to be as smooth and as straight as possible.
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Март 2019
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